The world is healing and nerds are sexy again.
Julian Klausner’s second collection patches together what you immediately recognise as quintessentially Dries van Noten: shiny fabrics, florals, rich textures. At first, the looks seem readable, but when you start counting all the texturally different layers, you realise nothing is quite what it seems. Ruffles and cummerbunds appear loose elements, but surprise, they’re part of the pants! Bits and pieces seemingly sprout from nowhere, too many hems poke out from the bottom, edges don’t quite match what’s visible on top.
Knit vests are worn nerdily over blouses with mismatched patterns, thick, striped wool sweaters, quilted scarves, heavy overcoats, everything is built for cold, gray mornings in a small New England boarding school (but not for insufferably rich boys, but for preppy, kind, brainiacs). The layering, warm and eclectic, reminds me of the Weasley family: quirky, human, endearing, nerdy, softhearted, and gentle. They’re clothes that feel personal, maybe hand-me-downs. Glasses aren’t oversized, cool, or threatening, they’re just for reading.
Klausner himself calls this a “coming of age” collection, and after the Dior show by Jonathan Anderson and Prada’s recent offerings, it feels like the sentiment of male geekiness is in the air. The men in this utopia (if I do say so myself) are no longer rigid, hardened, scary, but softer, kinder, in touch with their feelings, their books, their mothers even? (Maybe that’s a stretch.)
Either way, Dries van Noten AW26 offers us a gentle, warm new archetype that is confident in its dorkiness. Pay attention, boys!!!
Words by Pykel van Latum
