Andersson Bell: a MFW debut that asserts its territory

For the brand’s 10th anniversary, Andersson Bell steps into the heart of Milan Fashion Week with a confident stride, bringing a whirlwind of distressed denim, unpredictable cuts and panelwork overload into one of the oldest baroque-breathing gentlemen’s clubs in the city. Drawing on his teenage years, the brand’s creative director, Dohum Kim, reminisces about his first encounters of Seoul’s vintage districts – an influence that is palpable in the military-inspired cargo silhouettes fusing with acid-wash denim and racer leather. The collection is also dominated by the half-and-half construction, commitment to which expands from the asymmetry of straight-edged blazers exposing half of the torso to half-slick-half-curly hairstyles. Showcasing all things spliced and plastered back together, a touch of occasional tenderness is what tames the chaos and ties the narrative together. The details of wildflowers peaking out of patched totes and vase-shaped leather bags, skin-hugging and hem-replacing lace, loose yarn dispelling from soft mohair gradient jumpers and dresses, and shades of pastel baby blues and greens, all reflect the thoughtfulness and multifaceted identity that is the signature of Andersson Bell.