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Ann Demeulemeester F/W24 is redefining IT-girl grunge

It’s sharp, it’s rebellious, it’s so romantic and yet so sensual.

A new Ann Demeulemeester era is in bloom – and we’re so here for it. For his sophomore collection, newly appointed creative director Stefano Gallici envisioned a deliciously faceted identity for the brand. This collection takes inspiration from the indefinite, a way of being that boundlessly allows for the freedom to evolve. Gallici’s take proves that Ann Demeulemeester is not just a brand – it’s a total mindscape.

Where should we even start? The mix of leather and lace, a flowy slip dress with knee-high boots, and intricate distressed knitwear, Gallici revisited the brand’s staples adding something new, something simultaneously raw and delicate. An ode to archives as infinite entities meant to be explored and reinvented.

While the collection’s neutral colour palette was faithful to the grungy essence of the brand, the shapes and layering added nuance to the looks. And the silhouettes–the true protagonists of Gallici’s tale. From the mixing of textiles to the gorgeous suit looks, the fluidity of the silhouettes not only break gender boundaries, but become the symbolic signature of the new creative director as they embody the freedom to become by simply playing around with the garments.

And can we talk about the first look? A silky PJ set paired with a shaggy leather jacket and biker boots. It’s sharp, it’s rebellious, it’s so romantic and yet so sensual – luv.

Gallici mastered the balance between allowing multiplicity and continuing a narrative, but his genius lies in the ability to understand Demeulemeester’s archetypes. This collection felt like a love letter to the girls and boys who leave the house with unkempt, messy hair and only one earring on while still looking effortlessly cool.

Words by Agata Villa
Images courtesy of the brand