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Berlin Fashion Week FW24 Roundup

Drawing unsuspecting motifs

Berlin Fashion Week is always an interesting one to keep an eye on. Over the years this smaller week has worked to define what Berlin identity means and how it can authentically be translated into fashion. You do also get the occasional designer from Central or Eastern Europe showing, making Berlin – once again – the middle man of Europe. This season really explored how Berlin aesthetics can be reinterpreted and reimagined in new ways, drawing unsuspecting motifs. It’s edgy, it’s dark, it’s so Berlin but make it 2024. 

Anonymous Club, led by Shayne Oliver, made significant impact as Berlin Fashion Week as a part of the Intervention program. As the creative studio of Shayne Oliver Group, Anonymous Club embodies Oliver’s eclectic vision, emerging art, music, and fashion seamlessly. Collabing with a diverse array of artists like Tama Gucci, Izzy Spears, and Total Freedom, the club aims to meditate on urban fashion through the concept of “headlessnes” a term coined by Oliver to represent extravagant attire. It’s dark, it’s fun, and we have to admit, we’re obsessed. 

Sia Arnika AW24 collection revolves around the enigmatic portrayal of a woman, drawing inspiration from the silent film star Asta Nielsen. Evoking a sense of spiritual sensuality and captivating darkness, the collection explores the power of transformation through clothing and expression. With references ranging from androgynous to the seductive, the narrative delves into contrasts like disarray and ornamentation, mundane and provocative, shaping each piece with meticulous attention to detail. The runway presentation strips away distractions, focusing on a dramatic structure for models to gracefully navigate, while curated light and sound immerse the audience in the collection’s world. Collaborating with Untitlab, the collection introduces bold empowering silhouettes, challenging conventional boundaries of attire and merging diverse references to create hybrid shoes.

“Pfoten weg!” AKA “Hands off!” made a bold statement at the Kulturforum Gemäldegalerie, embracing mediaeval military armour and glamorous trash. Emilia Pfohl and Nan Li provocatively addressed hate against queer individuals navigating public spaces, infusing the collection with vibrant prints, realtree motifs, and bespoke monogram prints. Pinks and rhinestones mingled with chain mesh, stretch lycra, and vegan leather, crafting a dynamic visual narrative. Sculptural fits and couture-inspired designs introduced new silhouettes, redefining the brand’s aesthetic. “Pfoten Weg!” encourages individuals to embrace their truth unapologetically, reclaiming agency over the bodies and identities with confidence and undeniable allure. 

Marie Lueder’s “Mono-Myth” collection unveiled at the former n24 film studio, merges androgynous looks with mediaeval craftsmanship – mediaeval is THE Berlin motif of the season – rethinking menswear classics with a genderles twist. Hand-finished materials like denim, jersey and eco-nylon, dyed to resemble fire and earth, were central to this season’s palette. New techniques such as ‘crystalised’ detaining and oversized suits with accentuated elbows, offered fresh interpretations of classic silhouettes. The choice of location added to the mythical ambiance, with models circling a symbolic sun as the audience sat around a bonfire. 

Words by Ella Paritsky
Cover image courtesy of Berlin Fashion Week / Anonymous Club
Photograph by Caroline Kynast