Glenn Martens takes the Margiela legacy by its horns

This season’s been heavy with goodbyes and hellos, but yesterday’s show didn’t just enter the room, it blew the doors off the hinges. Glenn Martens’ debut collection for Maison Margiela shows us exactly why he was bestowed the crown of Creative Director. Galliano left behind a legacy and a pair of gaping shoes, ones most wouldn’t dare step into. But Martens doesn’t play dress-up. He builds his own, from the (tabi) sole up. Daring, dark, and “brut” in its construction (to quote Martin himself), Martens truly outdid himself with a collection that we’re sure will be marked as one of the most enthralling debuts to grace the runway.

Martens’ collection is clad with anonymous face veils, taking Margiela’s iconic masks and reinterpreting them through a bedazzling symphony of gems, bronzed metal, and fabric ornamentation. Despite their delicate appearance, a large part of the material was thrifted, echoing Martens’ sentiment of exemplifying different forms of opulence and richness through the use of accessible materials. Somewhat brooding but nevertheless bewitching, with crimson claws against black and brown fabrics, the masked seraphims parade the runway. Crunched up shimmering golden gowns, head-to-toe sheer plastic, and a sculptural silvery dress with a cowl akin to an ancient geode were just some of the few looks that had our eyes completely transfixed. Most striking was the all-white gown – a ghastly shadow made visible with porous silk and blurring the line between where the flesh began and fabric ended. From the re-purposed belts to being held at the same location as Martin’s final show in 2009, the genuflections to Martin Margiela continue, without Martens losing himself in it. Not to mention the doll-like corsetry, winking at the theatrical flair of Galliano’s SS24 collection, his porcelain-emulating finale at the house.

This debut proves Martens’ ability to innovate without eclipsing the legacy that precedes him, instead weaving his own vision seamlessly into the fabric of Margiela’s storied past. Overall, his collection sings to us, chiming Martens’ approach while championing the Maison Margiela signatures we love, and in its chorus, a tale of a promising future. So buckle up, strap in and let Glenn Martens handle the rest.