The deconstructed post-apocalyptic dream we all needed
Dear Marc Jacobs,
thank you for the collection no one knew we needed.
Seriously though, the latest Marc Jacobs surprise collection is a deconstructed post-apocalyptic dream no one – at least not us – saw coming. Completely unannounced, Marc Jacobs closed NYFW by dropping a lookbook with i-D (where his stylist is also editor-in-chief) consisting of 10 exquisite looks. The designer, known for his extravagant shows, for years closed NYFW – typically at the Lexington Armory – with a theatrical Jacobs BANG. However, due to the pandemic, we have all watched the house step back from the runway as Jacobs focuses on new beginnings (such as the now iconic Heaven collections).
While the collection comes as a shock, we should definitely expect more surprises as we move into (the ~kind of official~) post-pandemic era. Back in 2020 during an April Vogue conference, Jacobs said: “I just don’t think that when this lifts, everyone’s just going to get back on a plane and back on a train and back on a bus to come to a show. We have to be patient with the process. […] What I do and the clothes that I make and the way we present a show, it feels like that probably will never exist as we know it, the way we did it.”
With no show notes, no remarks, no explanations, everyone is left to speculate. It is thought that this collection is probably a combination of what would have been his F/W 22 collection and S/S 22 collection. The marvelous black and white gowns play with large exaggerated shapes and cutouts to construct futuristic and deconstructed looks. A definite highlight is the longer-than-maxi skirts, made only out of utility materials such as denim or nylon.
Both the dystopian designs and the subtle presentation of the collection indicate a daring new start for the brand – which if you haven’t noticed, we are very here for. So do yourself a favour – go spend some time with the full collection.