In conversation with DARKAI's founders Lelio and Giacomo Zoccai

DARKAI brings their alternative jewellery pop-up to the Glamcult Store in just a few days!

Who decided jewellery had to be “polite” anyway? Brothers, creative collaborators, and co-founders of alternative jewellery house DARKAI, Lelio and Giacomo certainly don’t think so. Raised among goldsmiths, gemstones, and heavy machinery in Vicenza, the two decided to bend the rules instead of following them. Their designs embrace tension as crowns lose their hierarchy, rosaries gain attitude, and “forevers” become optional. With their latest collection, SS26 Regalia, touching down at the Glamcult Store for a pop-up next weekend, DARKAI shows us how royalty is here to be worn and defined on your own terms.

How did you get into jewellery design?
Lelio:  I got into design at a very young age. Growing up in a family of jewellers, I spent a lot of time at our factory, closely observing the manufacturing processes. I’ve always been passionate about turning ideas into tangible objects, and becoming a designer felt like a natural path thanks to that early exposure. Having access to materials, stones and experimentation shaped the way I approach design today.

Could you share your first memory of jewellery?
Giacomo: My first memory of jewellery is tied to our family factory in Vicenza, when I was five or six years old. After school, my dad and family would bring us there, we’d play football, ride dirt bikes and spend entire summers inside the factory. I remember sitting next to the artisans, watching them work with blue flames and ultra-thin tools, completely mesmerised by their precision and coordination. I was given tiny tasks like dividing semi-precious stones by colour and size, dismantling unused samples, just enough to feel involved. One image stayed with me: an old radio with a long antenna playing Estate by Negramaro. Me sitting on a small chair at a tiny desk, surrounded by goldsmiths, metal shiny components and coloured stones. I was fascinated by how decades of knowledge and heavy machinery could produce something so small, intimate and precious. That feeling never really left.

Was there a specific moment, cultural shift, or visual reference that sparked the Regalia SS26 collection?
Giacomo: Regalia comes from where we are in our personal and creative journey with DARKAI. From the start, Lelio and I set one rule for DARKAI: everything had to feel natural and honest. We didn’t want to repeat what the industry expects or recognises as safe; DARKAI exists precisely because of this. We wanted to work around something personal, meaningful and still culturally relevant. Regalia reflects that tension. Heritage against vision. Tradition against edge. Raw against polished. Old ideas of royalty confronting modern ideas of success. Our family story became the lens through which we explored the changes our industry and society have gone through across generations. Regalia is both a tribute and a step forward. Respect for what came before us, without being trapped by it

What underground cultures do you find inspiration in, and how do you translate this into jewellery?
Lelio: Whenever we think about underground, we envision a noir, dark-themed and raw “evil-ish” atmosphere. As a collective, we are always drawn into the mysterious lust of its prohibition, and this feeling is what sparks our inspiration. We maximise our creative expression by turning a nocturnal concept into a shiny piece which combines the contrast of sharp flowing shapes and the sparkle of gemstones.

Could you share what “modern royalty” means to you?
Giacomo: Historically, royalty was built on lineage, permanence and institutional power – economic, social and political. But in a world that’s constantly shifting, those structures have changed. Modern royalty no longer relies on inheritance; it’s about confidence, independence and self-definition. Today, status comes from authenticity, self-expression and pride in who you are, not where you come from. That idea sits at the core of DARKAI.

What traditional jewellery “rules” were you most eager to break when starting the brand?
Lelio: There are many traditional jewellery dogmas we wanted to challenge, but one above all is the idea that “a jewel is forever”. We believe this mindset limits freedom and self-expression, pushing people toward safe choices that ultimately kill creativity and individuality. If the same logic were applied to fashion, there would be no innovation or subcultures, only conformity. Jewellery has been shaped by this concept for decades, and as a result, many people have lost sight of what jewellery can really be and the expressive power it holds.

Personal favourite design?
Lelio: My personal favourite design and the one I wear the most often is the DARKAI Clover set. We reworked a timeless symbol by sharpening its lines, refining details and experimenting with colours and stone combinations. I’m particularly proud of this design as I believe we achieved the creation of a modern classic.
Giacomo: I’m consistently drawn to pieces that feel almost excessive in weight, scale or presence. Designs that carry tension: refined, yet slightly uncomfortable. If a piece feels too polite, it rarely feels honest. From Regalia, the Inferno and Purgatorio Rosaries stand out, alongside the XXL Gothic Cross and the Black Clover set with baguette stones. They embody that balance between structure and intensity that I’m always searching for.

How would you say your design language has evolved since you started the brand?
Lelio:  Our design language has become more refined and mature. Today, details and longevity matter more than chasing immediate attention or virality, which was more present in our early collections. We’ve always worked in limited quantities and never replicated iconic designs across seasons. Each collection represents a specific moment and evolution of the brand. DARKAI is now recognised for a distinct aesthetic, and the designs are a direct reflection of that identity.

Dream collaboration?
Lelio: My dream collaboration would be Audemars Piguet.  I admire how the brand managed to evolve its historical image and connect with new generations through collaborations and cultural initiatives that initially felt unexpected for a traditional luxury watch house.
Giacomo: A collaboration that moves beyond jewellery and enters another cultural language. I’m less interested in names and more in alignment. When two worlds genuinely share values and aesthetics, the result feels timeless rather than seasonal or opportunistic. I’m particularly drawn to projects that connect generational or subcultural meaning to adornment. To name a few references: Hot Wheels, Rick Owens, Cartier, Barbie, Mercedes-Benz, Disney, Tiffany & Co., Premier League, Willy Chavarria.

Most recent source of inspiration?
Lelio: I’ve been inspired by gothic and baroque architecture and historical silverware such as frames, mirrors, clocks and decorative objects. Studying these artefacts influenced the shapes, textures and colour combinations of the Regalia collection.
Giacomo: Vintage objects and materials like silverware, religious artefacts, and worn metals studied through a contemporary lens. Much of my inspiration comes from ancient arts, architecture, and travelling. Solo travel is a major creative driver for me: observing streets, walls, buildings, construction sites, museums, local businesses and people. I’m deeply inspired by raw, underground aesthetics and cultural observation, noticing details most people overlook.

Piece you are most excited to stock during the pop-up Glamcult Store?
Lelio: I’m super excited to stock the new Black Clover Baguette set, the Razor Wire set, and the Trillion Hammered Ring, as I believe they are great representations of DARKAI identity and manufacturing capabilities. I’m thrilled to receive the feedback from the fashion community in Amsterdam.
Giacomo: The three Rosaries symbolising the Divine Journey through Hell, Purgatory and Paradise, alongside the Razor necklace. 

Looking ahead, what’s next on the radar for DARKAI?
Giacomo: We’re focused on building DARKAI beyond collections. That means deeper material research, more deliberate physical activations and pushing the boundaries of custom and bespoke jewellery. The goal is to continue shaping a cultural universe rather than simply releasing products, while remaining independent in vision. 2026 will be a pivotal year. We’re working on major endorsements, two culturally driven collaborations that merge jewellery and fashion, new approaches to bespoke creation and laying the foundations for a return to our origins in fine jewellery.