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Pleats on Pleats on Pleats at Issey Miyake's SS24

Coming back to the strings of the brand’s DNA

Honouring the late Issey Miyake‘s legacy of celebrating the full circle of garment-making, – from the very inception of its skeleton to how the finished product fuses with the wearer’s body and mind – Satoshi Kondo continues the vision. This season, the show begins with a white piece of pleated rice paper being slowly unraveled like a makeshift runway, comfortably stretching across the gallery space. The team then emerges, stationing themselves at equal intervals at the edge of the monumental sheet. So, then the magic begins –  the hidden clothes are masterfully revealed with a swift glide of scissors across the patterns, as models march onto the runway, waiting to be dressed, all in front of the audience’s eye.

A testament to the technical and conceptual intricacies of the craft, Issey Miyake’s show was exactly what Paris Fashion Week needed – a grounding experiences that humbly places workmanship on the pedestal and goes back to the essence of what fashion is. The collection’s revolution is founded in its simplicity and return to the pillars of the brand’s DNA, with a sense of peace, patience, and honour being palpable throughout signature slinky silhouettes and outstanding handiwork. These elements are elevated through pastel hues, relaxed fits and intriguing layering – and the king of the show, of course, is the pleating technique iconified by the fashion house. Subtle folds of each pleat reverberate around the model’s bodies with elegant fluidity, exemplifying Miyake’s history that continues to inform the brand’s evolving future.


Images Courtesy of Issey Miyake

Words of Evita Shrestha