A deconstructed meditation on what Punk means
Kidill has a unique ability to capture everyone’s attention, and this season is no different. Their latest F/W24 collection is a deconstructed meditation on what Punk means. Well, of course, the brand itself is established on the basis of blending punk and skate cultures in a totally contemporary way. But this latest collection slows down. As you may remember, back in 2020 the brand collabed with Jamie Ried, the artist who created the sex pistols cover art and logos – AKA one of the greatest punk legends. This was an important moment for the brand, solidifying itself as a recognised pioneer of contemporary punk and setting the standard of what punk means today. Sadly, Reid passed away last August, a moment that left us all not only in grief but also in question. What is the future of punk without punk’s founding leaders?
This question was deeply felt by Hiroaki Sueyasu, Kidill’s artistic director. With punk’s past appearing to vanish before him, he shares, “Jamie was my very starting point…with the loss of something I believed would be in experience somewhat eternally is like a void, he was a stranger, but he was also portraying me. Even though Jamie and the other remarkable figures who created early punk have left us, it is our duty to ensure that the essence of punk, that has influenced our time and our people in countless ways, stays alive.” – Sueyasu
We see the spirit of Sueyasu’s words in the latest collection with a show that incorporates classical punk elements with silhouettes and details that reflect the moment of today. As a result, the ethos of destruction and denial aesthetically emerges on the surface, yet begging us to think and feel deeper. Honestly, do yourself a favour and spend some time with the collection, it is the only way to truly let it sink in. What do we feel? To us what threads the collection together is a rather positive, hopeful energy for the future. That the core of punk will never die.
Now here comes our favourite time, picking our highlights. A special mention goes to the use of florals in this collection. From coats and tops, the floral prints add a sense of playfulness to the otherwise aesthetically dark collection. The new punk is in bloom this fall, and Kidill grew it. It wouldn’t be F/W24 if there wasn’t leopard print, but why stop at a print? Yup, Sueyasu went all the way and included an entire leopard suit. And in line with heritage, the tartan buckle trousers are a must in our book.