FALL 2021 MENSWEAR
The Fall 2021 menswear collection of rising King-of-construction Kiko Kostadinov answers the one question we are all asking: how can we live more vividly in the midst of a global pandemic?
The foundation of Kostadinov’s philosophy resides in utilitarianism; the ideology that any object should have a property that maximises someone’s pleasure, benefit, joy or happiness. And that is exactly what Kostadinov is doing with his designs, by adding the joy of wearing a Kostadinov garment, even if it’s very simple workwear! In this collection, he also incorporates Jacques Derrida’s ‘hauntology’ -the recollection of elements of the past- by deconstructing different identities. Kostadinov reintroduces the old into the new by fusing different crafts and contradicting functions within the collection. Drawing inspiration from Christopher Priest’s science-fiction novel A Dream of Wessex and Patience Grey’s memoir on Mediterranean cuisine Honey From A Weed, Kostadinov is the living proof that inspiration can also reside in simplicity and stillness. Even when the world seems to be quiet and still, inspiration is to be found in anything. The clothes showcase exactly that…
When you combine Kostadinov’s playful approach to construction and layering with meticulous tailoring techniques and sharp silhouettes, you get rewarded with a collection that celebrates the eclectic beauty that can be found in complexity. This collection invites us to meditate on the mantra that there is no harmony without uncertainty, especially in the modern, yet the limited world we are currently living in. Through mastering the art of mixing and matching, the Bulgarian-born, London-based designer illustrates the different seasons of life alongside the continuous fluctuation of human’s desire for both stillness and exertion. The collection captures the balance between flowy garments and rougher, richer textures – contrasting popping colours of red, fuchsia, cobalt blue with more earthy browns.
Through it all, the essence of the designer remains clear: an honest work ethic in producing innovative clothes for authentic people
Click to ‘play’ Kostadinov’s randomized triptych: a demonstration of the endless styling directions one could go, using this collection’s garments (resulting in an assemblage of a whopping 90 looks in total!).
Words by Brechtje Polman