London Fashion Week SS'24

It’s that time of the year again…London Fashion Week SS’24 showcases the hottest looks designers have to offer. Filled with playfulness and references to monster trucks and robotic angles!?  See why showgoers were glued to their seats or maybe not all of them… This season will stop you from scrolling, and pull you into each imaginative and provocative collection. Calling us to think about everything from the rise of AI to cultural heritage and more through the glistening lens of fashion. At Glamcult we have put together a selection of standout designers we feel you simply cant afford to miss. Dive into our season’s top picks!

First up is Masha Popova, who continues to use her visual identity as a means of starting a conversation without uttering a single word. This London-based designer, originally from Ukraine,  invites us to take a passenger seat on a thrilling ride into her gritty yet beautiful emo world. Known for her creative and versatile use of denim,  the collection is filled with distinctive marks and motifs reflecting the tire tracks of a voracious monster truck, resulting in a rugged and deconstructed denim aesthetic. This collection also seamlessly incorporates silk and velvet, providing a striking contrast to the rough-and-ready denim, infusing a fresh and agile flavour into her creations. Masha Popova’s collection thrives on contrasts and extremes, as she pushes the pedal to the metal. Operating by her own rules, she uses her artistic vision to turn heads.

Is this the dress rehearsal?! Simone Rocha’s enchanting collection blossomed on the runway last Sunday, featuring pink parkas adorned with roses and floor-length ribbons, laced dresses, and shimmering silver leather biker jackets. The backdrop for this captivating collection was the English National Ballet rehearsal space, perfectly aligning with Simone’s theme of the dress rehearsal. Her work conveys the intimacy of the night before the big day, allowing us to closely admire the detailed craftsmanship such as the delicate ribbon pattern featured across one of the looks. This collection encapsulates the beauty that often goes unnoticed amidst the extravagance of the main event. Despite this Simone is a designer on everyone’s radar. Read her interview with us discussing her exquisite SS ’23 collection featured in The LIGHT Issue.

Flipping around the exterior with the interior….Molly Goddard explores what lies beneath the concept of style, drawing inspiration from the underskirts and undergarments used by National Theatre Costume department alongside Victorian Christening robes and Georgian underwear. Goddard creates a collection which brings us to focus on the internal workings of the dress rather than just it’s elaborate and glamorous outer surface. Searching beneath her signature tulle style dresses, seen in her AW’21 collection among others, Goddard unveils a new agile take, which admirers of her previous collections won’t want to miss!

JW Anderson stretches our imagination, with a collection that seeks to exaggerate and playfully spin off classic streetwear.  A variety of textures and volume became the palette for Anderson to play with as he presented to us a whimsical collection which filled the runway with airy silhouettes and inflated sports garments. The collection collides vibrant colours with classic streetwear pieces and even re-constructs the staple classic hoodie, through the medium of clay. The collection took the internet by storm as not just the collection walked down the runway but Mrs Wintour followed a little ahead of the show’s (very delayed) schedule.

CHOPPOVA LOWENA brings a moody and sinister take on the classic skater look. Staged at West London’s BAYSIXTY6 Skate Park, each look came  down ramps in a collection which unexpectedly brought together gothic underpinnings and streetwear references. Continuing Choppova Lowena’s folklore narrative which we saw in their Bulgarian folk inspired SS’23 collection, the garments drew inspiration from gothic lacework infused with the skater look we all know and love. This gothic look turns the skater boy chic into something more atmospheric and bold.

Nigerian-British designer MOWALOLA brings us romance and sensuality with her SS’24 collection. Opening the show with a poem, constructed by the designer, showgoers were asked: ‘If we crash tonight, baby do we die? If we crash tonight, baby will u ride?’ The garments served to follow and accentuate the shape and grooves of the body. The collection was also bound with belts around leather boots, tying us closer to each look . The show created a fusion of flaws and beauty, through the makeup stylings of ISMAYA FFRENCH, we saw IRINA SHAYK among others, wearing bruises and scars on her face. This look embodies romance whilst also drawing on something much darker.

Do you ever question where your spirit lives? New on the scene, London based fashion brand T LABEL SS’24 collection explores our connection to the physical. The runway became a space to explore the sensitivity and fragility of our bodies as a shell. A standout garment from the collection was a low rise black maxi-skirt which featured the words ‘fashion gives my anxiety’ in large white font. This piece boldly expresses the pressure of the industry itself,  letting out what perhaps a lot of designers felt during this season. T LABEL are a brand that speak their mind, secure in their own identity and unafraid to show fear and emotion. Check out our interview with them here!

Luke Kennedy’s FASHION EAST has provided support for rising British talent since the start of the 2000s. Their SS’24 collection displays the work of three diverse designers OLLY SHINDER, MICHEAL STEWART and JOHANNA PARV. In his London Fashion Week debut, Olly Shinder’s first showcased a collection inspired by British Queer culture, featuring open-zipped mesh tees and a nod to his German heritage with a red Bavarian gingham shirt and shorts reminiscent of lederhosen, all infused with London Queer culture. Continuing the search into heritage, Micheal Stewart collection was an ode to his native Ireland, using the ancient landscape to sculpt his flowing airy dresses. The standout look featured an oceanic light blue, with double layering outlines with beaded skirt ornamentation. Lastly Johanna Parv’s collection created a look that keeps up with any fast paced lifestyle. Built for action, these pieces serve as an empowered symbol femininity. Tailoring cycling tops into suit like attire and elevated sports jackets with enlarged shapes underneath high tech shirts. The collection took the practical into the professional, to make anything possible.

Introducing SINEAD GOREY, who’s SS’24 collection travelled along the fashion timeline that have shaped the iconic city. Celebrating the essence of all things British, her collection encapsulated a spectrum of styles, from the raw and rebellious punk aesthetic to the neon and oversized attire reminiscent of 90s ravers. Incase you didn’t realise this collection was British through and through, Gorey used photos of the country’s icon and supermodel Kate Moss at Glastonbury printed on each leg of the tight high cut trousers for one of the looks, adding a nostalgic touch to her collection.

The robotic guardian angle has arrived. A 20-foot statue constructed from metal poles and technical fabrics resembling a winged figure overlooked the runway during SUSAN FANG’s SS24 collection. Programming a deep connection between humans and the digital world, the sculpture symbolised technology as something sacred, an object of worship even. Contrasting to the menacing machinery, the collection displayed delicate lace dresses and AI- generated prints merged with hand-drawn floral illustrations further merging the human into the technological. The collection was accessorised with an array of cross-body bags. The straps of these bags were meticulously crafted with crystal beads that seem to beckon us into a transfixed gaze. The bags, with their translucent and shimmering appearance, serve as a striking testament to Fang’s innovative style and unique approach to fashion.

Priya Ahluwalia, founder of AHLUWALIA, uses her Indian-Nigerian heritage as a consistent source of inspiration, incorporating it into the vibrant London fashion scene. AHLUWALIA’s SS’24 collection stood as a testament to this commitment, paying homage to Ahluwalia’s deep connection with African culture. The runway, set within the British Library, was adorned with the rhythmic drumming beats reminiscent of traditional Nigerian music. The collection was filled with vibrant colour, breathing life into each ensemble. It skilfully combined elements such as zebra prints, vintage boiler jackets, diamond-shaped patches, and oversized 70s collars. The style of this collection embodied fusion, seamlessly blending elements of African traditional attire with contemporary fashion.

Ukrainian-born London-based designer NATASHA ZINKO grapples with the concept of survival, exploring into the ways in which humans navigate crises, whether they be political turmoil, war, or environmental disasters. This collection serves as a poignant reminder to examine the narrative of survival that continues to unfold around us. The show painted a picture of a dystopian campsite nestled within a London park. Each look exuded a futuristic and gothic ambiance, with garments designed for mobility, complemented by an array of camping bags with excessive straps, large backpacks, puffed out garments with various camouflage imprints. ZINKO’s urgent and politically charged message drives the crisis of human survival into the heart of the city.

Greek designer DI PETSA continues her exploration into greek mythology, though a homage to the gods and goddesses. On the runway, MEMPHY captivated us wearing a gold shimmering dress that elegantly cascades down to the floor, embodying an ethereal and transcendent presence. The dress featured elegant craftsmanship with a golden necklace embellished with shimmering gem stones holding the piece together. Other standout looks featured in the collection included a knitted cream sea-foam minidresses, and a coral off-the-shoulder minidress with a draped, ruched skirt. Radiating like a beacon in the eyes of the mortal world, this collection weaves a fashion allegory that follows the tale of the nymphs who stirred Venus from her slumber.

London-based Chinese designer YUHAN WANG‘s SS’24 collection breaks free from the male gaze, creating a look which salutes the 19th century heroine. The collection is inspired by the character of Tess Durbeyfield from Thomas Hardy’s ‘Tess of the d’Urbervilles’, who served as a symbol of female empowerment and sexuality.  Drawing from it’s 19th century muse, the garments are intricately detailed with lace and accessorised with en-large straw bonnets, which implemented a bold dynamic quality to the look. The collection also carried a strawberry theme, which drew parallels to the Roman Polanski film adaptation in which there is a famous seduction scene involving the delicious fruit. Strawberries were imprinted across satin dresses, undergarments and 3D-printed necklaces, emulating a motif which embraced feminine sensuality in a fun and playful way.