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Milan Fashion Week F/W24 introduces a new era

Glenn Martens opened a door that can no longer be closed

Let’s talk F/W24 Milan Fashion Week. Over the past few years, we have begun to see a shift in the fashion shown in Milan. In general, the city is known for its sleek, sexy, Italian fashion that values its traditional crafts. But Glenn Martens opened a door that can no longer be closed – and to be honest, we love it. Houses now have the space to really do whatever they want. The result? Milan is becoming ever more experimental. We mean, it’s still sleek, it’s still sexy, but now, it’s also so much more playful – and kind of silly – than what we’ve seen in a while. But we’ve done enough talking about the city, let’s dive into the collections.

Ngl, Sunnei F/W24 made us giggle a little. Who needs music when you can have the inner dialogues of the models as they do their thang down the runway? From critiquing the industry to funny mundane thoughts, this runway show brought the viewers to the models. The collection? Sunnei could care less about the trends of the moment. The looks are distinctly Sunnei, with very few silhouettes that are anything but their own. In fact, it’s a little madcap at times – taking some notes from the van Bierendonk textbook – but c’mon, that’s the point. They capture the absurd chaos in our – and the models’ – minds in a beautifully refined manner. Our fav moment? The ‘octopus-like detailing on scarves and necklines of course.

So we’ve all encountered trolls in a comment section somewhere on the internet, right? But what would trolling look like in real life? Well, that’s exactly what Beate Karlsson answers this fall/winter season. Viewers were instructed to throw literal trash at the models as they strolled by, turning the runway into a kind of modern-day stoning. Yeah, it’s kind of dark, but you know, so is the internet… Anyways, the collection took a darker turn this season, featuring rips and cuts alongside their beloved awkward shoulder-hoods and love for the oversized. And guess what’s back? Yup, you guessed it, the filthy rich caps. Did I just hear you say you love them? Well then, buy your own at the Glamcult Store ;).


To be honest, MM6 F/W24 is kind of silly. It of course is totally Margiela, but yet, there is a little cheekiness to the collection that we haven’t seen in a while. The collection was approached with the notion of abstraction – as always – to create clothes with no fixed meaning. One of more tangible inspirations was the pillows in the hotel the team normally stays in. Paired with these pillow-shirts are firm-shouldered dress coats with googly eyes. Yeah, you heard us. In fact, the pillow comes back as a common motif of the season, with models sporting pillow-like bags and one even holding a neck pillow. Unusual yet playful prints also took center stage this collection. One with a zombie-like creature wearing MM6 and another a colorful thermo print with the words “what is it” below. We told you, this season is silly Margiela.

You know what, Jil Sander surprised us this season. Don’t get us wrong, we love Jil Sander elegance. But there is something about this collection that is a totally new interpretation of the house’s minimalist oeuvre. F/W24 focuses on comfort above all in every garment no matter the material or cut. We can see the corners of the Jil Sander world being explored and to a certain degree not taken seriously. There is an airiness that reminds us of the playful abilities that lay even within minimalist sartorial codes.

Diesel o’ Diesel, where do we begin? So Glenn Martens whole thing is about decentralizing the fashion industry right? This year we got the live BTS of the show, with cameras set up backstage streaming what was happening 72 hours leading up to the collection’s debut. This uncovering of a new dimension of the industry is mirrored in the collection itself. With garments distressed to look burnt, revealing another garment underneath. Fur takes center stage this collection, with an entire chapter dedicated to Martens raggedy fur – from coats to balaclavas to wigs – to the elegant feather-like fur. Overall, this collection continues to build on the Diesel world that Martens has been ever-expanding. It’s so Diesel yet still so new.

Words by Ella Paritsky
Cover image courtesy of Diesel