New York fashion week roundup

Tis fashion month, and you all know what that means. As everyone scrambles around the fashion capitals, securing their invites in their closest cities, designers get to show us what Fall 2024 means to them. We start the month off across the pond with New York Fashion Week. While each capital has their unique fashion identity, New York is perhaps one of the most mysterious. How do we define New York fashion? How is the New York landscape evolving? With the rise of new local designers gaining international renown, some may say New York fashion is beginning to enter a new golden age. So join us as we take a look at what went down last week.

Let’s start off with Thom Browne. Whether you’re a Browne fan or not, this collection is undeniably one of his best – or at least most interesting. His runways are known for defamiliarising ready-to-wear garments through proportion and shape. He leans into the sartorial language of high-brow culture to find unexpected spaces within the codes. The brand has dipped its toes into classical storytelling before, but now we see it take a dramatic turn. F/W24 is an ode to Edgar Allen Poe’s “The Raven” perhaps one of his most well-taught and culturally recognisable stories. What makes this collection stand out however is the complete turn to theatricality; with children aiding the models as they make their way across the snow-glazed stage and bug-esque hair. This collection marks a dramatic shift in Thom Browne as the brand descends further into the experiermental realm. And to be totally honest, we’re here for it.

If you haven’t noticed by now, we are on the Sandy Liang train – and we won’t be off it anytime soon. Liang is the literal Sophia Coppola of fashion, turning stories of girlhood into full collections. For this season, Liang explores the story of a schoolgirl who becomes a princess. Who is this princess you may ask, well, she is just like all of us. She ties her hair up, she collects little things that she won’t remember, she takes pic after pic on her phone, and at the end of the day “she is just one girl in in a group of girls.” Building on feelings of nostalgia with designs that are totally of the now, Sandy Liang has done it again. Oh! And this collection marks a year of the brand! Everyone go congratulate them <3

Eckhaus Latta F/W24, let’s see let’s see, where do we start with this one. Well, one detail def worth mentioning is that the collection is literally in an office in Hudson Square. So right off the bat, you know we are talking corpcore. But this is not your typical corpcore that is running rampant on your Pinterest, Eckhaus and Latta combine a new kind of hot. Making use of cutouts, sheer fabrics, and other textures that we recognize from the fashion realm of the moment but combining it with that New York minimal corporate edge. The brand infuses professionalism with playfulness, adding colour where we don’t expect.

It’s time to talk Willy Chavarria. Titled “Safe from Harm” this collection really affirms that if you are unfamiliar with Chavarria’s work, it’s time to get familiar. Known for playfully crafting garments that pull on Mexican sartorial language, F/W24 adds England to the mix. Blending ’80s high-brow England with his Mexican codes. For those who have been long-time followers of the brand, you will definitely notice classic Chavarria silhouettes in this collection such as the signature tracksuits and oversized flowy dress pants. With each collection, Chavarria carves a bigger space for his brand and message in the industry, working to redefine not only who’s beauty is allowed in the fashion sphere but who’s fashion.