From the familial distressed denim and shock value of Glenn Martens’ Diesel to the new slime-ridden era of PRADA, what is there not to love?
The fashion week grind is a unique one, one week we’re in London, the next Milan and suddenly the same faces are looking around at one another with the same combination of excitement, fatigue, thrill and gratitude. Only a few days into the MFW SS’24, we have already seen a lot — so hereby is our current round-up of all the things we love, and are lusting over. From the familial distressed denim and shock value of Glenn Martens’ Diesel to the new slime-ridden era of PRADA, what is there not to love? Read below for all things Milan Fashion Week.
Strolling down the expansive red runway, the Glenn Martens Diesel crew took the lead in showcasing this season’s trends in Milan. The show kicked off amidst a vibrant ‘rave’ atmosphere, coinciding with the heavens opening up and rain showering some of the most beloved faces in the fashion industry. Following a lively NTS pre-game that lasted roughly four hours, film composer Senjan Jansen‘s entrancing soundtrack took centre stage, perfectly capturing the audience’s energy as 7,000 spectators witnessed 73 denim-inspired looks.
The show started with a collection of distressed jersey ensembles, reminiscent of the well-worn denim styles from Fall ’23. Ranging from loose-fitting tank tops to two-piece bralette sets and maxi skirts, along with an elegant full-length turtleneck dress. This innovative approach quickly breathed new life into Diesel’s signature worn-in aesthetic.
Of course, denim enthusiasts were also treated to an array of heavy-duty yet artfully tailored jackets, jeans, dresses, and accompanying accessories. However, the standout moment was undoubtedly the captivating appearance of a Bond-esque model, adorned in nothing but body paint, a glistening thong, and a head-turning top-turned headscarf, all in dazzling gold chrome.
Slime and slime again, Prada has shown us not to become complacent during their runway presentations. This time, the unexpected dripped down the middle of an industrial runway. While this captivating visual had made an appearance in June’s menswear runway, it provided an equally tranquil backdrop for Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ SS’24 collection, a celebration of Prada’s dedication to craftsmanship, highlighted through jewellery-like metal fringe skirts and intricate floral embroidery pieces.
In addition to this showcase of meticulous details, Prada embraced their signature elements, including point-toe slingbacks, utilitarian tailoring, and an unexpected nod to 1920s flapper dresses, accompanied by snug-fitting bonnets. Another intriguing aspect was the revival of one of Mario Prada’s original handbag designs, dating back to 1913, the year of Fratelli Prada’s establishment. This unique bag featured a distinctive frame clasp adorned with a carved mythological figure’s head, reinterpreted with leather and Prada’s iconic Re-Nylon material.
As the show came to a close, Miuccia Prada welcomed Fabio Zambernardi to the stage, a long-time collaborator and the design director of Prada and Miu Miu. This marked a significant moment, as Zambernardi, after three decades with the company, has recently announced his departure from the Prada empire.
Amidst a backdrop of rave runways and industrial settings, Blumarine chose to return to simplicity by presenting their SS’24 collection in a classic white cube. This marks a significant departure from their Fall’23 Joan of Arc collection, with its fiery backdrop, and the previous shows featuring blue and pink monochromatic runways. However, there’s no need to worry, as the Y2K aesthetic that this brand has thrived on since the post-COVID era remains intact. We still witness extravagant elements such as angel wings, golden corset tops, monochromatic capri pants, and vest top sets, all accompanied by low-waste chiffon ruffle skirts.
This time, though, a darker and more mature energy has taken over (but only within 50% of the collection). Alongside the familial pinks and nudes of Blumarine, loose sequined underwear, black fishnet dresses, and edgy little purses also came down the runway to the sound of “I’m A Freak” from the highly controversial HBO show, “The Idol.” Whether this should be interpreted as a commentary on purity or impurity is hard to determine (much like the Tv show itself). However, it’s quite evident to notice the contrast between lightness and darkness.
In celebration of Moschino’s 40th anniversary, despite the absence of a creative director, the SS’24 show featured a reinterpretation and modernization of the brand’s archive for the 2023 audience. The brand’s history is rooted in the persona of Franco Moschino himself, a provocative figure in the fashion industry who delighted in satirizing and playfully challenging its often solemn demeanour. Although his passing in 1994 due to AIDS-related causes was a sombre moment, 40 years after the brand’s inception, his legacy remains substantial. Whether you adore or dislike what Moschino has to offer, there is always a lively discussion, observation, and critique surrounding it.
During the show, four stylists drew inspiration from the first 10 years of the brand’s existence. Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele showcased the early effortless glamour of Moschino with clean white-cream, black, and nude iterations of the suit, accessorized with oversized diamond jewels, loose-fitting beanies, and corresponding heart-shaped bags. The second stylist however to delve into the Moschino archive is VOGUE Editor-at-Large Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, who self-proclaimes a ‘cunty cowboy’ aesthetic onto her quarter of the collection. This included brightly coloured crochet knit skirts contrasted with black lace trims, and barely-there pink blouses, alongside an abundance of (of course) cowboy hats. Why ‘cunty cowboy,’ you ask? Well, in keeping with the Moschino tradition of subversion, Karefa-Johnson described the hyper-masculine energy of a cowboy hat as the opposite of her identity as a Black woman. By adopting this masculine symbol of whiteness, she turns the narrative and initiates an important yet playful conversation as Moschino would have in the 90s.
Thirdly, Lucia Liu, based in Beijing, paid homage to Moschino’s affinity for hyper-femininity, but this time, she approached it through a romantic lens, a facet that often takes a backseat in today’s Moschino characterized by its emphasis on streetwear and slogans. Through floral prints, oversized bows, and ruffled skirts, Lucia Liu brings forth a cottage-core-ness we never expected (but love) to see walk the Moschino runway. Last but not least, Katie Grand dived straight into the slogans that Moschino is most famous for today, featuring T-shirts emblazoned with “LOUD LUXURY” alongside micro-bikinis, tutus, and thigh-high lace-up sneakers excusing the camp avant-garde the brand strives towards.
Overall, this was a referential and intriguing 40-year celebration. It was fun, playful, and for the Moschino heads in the crowd a dream carved out of loud mini-skirt suits and bedazzled beanie hats.
Kim Jones adopted a casual approach for Fendi‘s Milan season. After being named the brand’s artistic director in early 2021, the British designer represents a new chapter in Fendi’s story following his predecessor, Karl Lagerfeld.
Jones drew inspiration from Roman women for his SS’24 collection, which is characterized by meticulous attention to detail in its minimalist designs. The collection features impeccably tailored suits, shirts, and coats crafted from simple knits and silks, resulting in an architectural aesthetic that reimagines conventionality without sacrificing wearability and functionality. Additionally, the collection introduced a range of bags, from micro to maxi, including Fendi classics like the Baguette, Peekaboo, and Origami.
Overall, the show was serious but not solemn and classic but not cliché as the models casually walked to the sounds of Max Richter and Dinah Washington.
Returning to her familiar turf in Milan, Donatella Versace is poised to further honour her brother’s legacy. This time, she revisits Fall 1995, a collection renowned for its 1960s checkerboard references, lilac power suits, and white PVC knee-high boots. Despite the daunting prospect, the latest reinterpretation introduces a new generation while maintaining a celebration of the past. Familiar faces like Claudia Schiffer were to be seen, bridging the gap between eras.
The clothing from the original collection, however, underwent a significant transformation. Gone were the tiny white gloves and overly-tailored pencil skirts. Instead, the spotlight was on silk checkered shorts, pastel-yellow mesh two-piece outfits, and impeccably sculpted black dresses with perfectly scooped necklines.
Overall, this was Versace in its element, a home away from home and although the collection was to be expected, it was done so with open arms.
In true 2023 fashion, one of the most talked about aspects of the Dolce & Gabanna show was a member of the Kardashian clan, this time however, the internet’s lens fell on Kylie Jenner. As the audience sat and waited for Miss Jenner’s arrival, the song, What Was I Made For? taken from none other than the Barbie soundtrack was played on repeat — so if you didn’t already feel like you an accessory to the Keeping-up / Truman show, you did now! However, despite criticism, this all added to the opulent dystopia that is Dolce & Gabbana.
This season marked another 40-year anniversary celebration by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, and they approached it similarly by reflecting on their journey. The runway featured a prominent motif of re-styled lingerie, with satin corsets, silk slips, lace underdresses, and stockings. These pieces paid homage to the brand’s signature Italian flair with monochromatic black and white ensembles, headscarves, lower neck details, and an iconic PVC leopard print trench coat, also paired with a matching headscarf.
A moment we are particularly ready to re-live? The timeless essence of a fur-coat-no-nickers-aeshtetic.
Named Enlighted Particles, Han Kjøbenhavn‘s SS’24 collection introduced the essence of unconventional; a rarely seen concept at Milan Fashion Week. Led by the brand’s founder, Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen, the brand aimed to create its own distinctive world within the backdrop of a classic Italian setting: the city’s cathedral. Within the provocative and gothic setting of Milan’s catholic church, Enlighted Particles was sensual, and as ever, sculptural — this time through a brutalist aesthetic presented through broad rectangle shoulders enhanced with metal boning and uniquely proportioned (and a somewhat monster-esque) bodysuits.
With these daring and brutalist-inspired silhouettes, the brand revitalized everyday wardrobe essentials, including suits, eveningwear, and even our beloved tracksuit. In addition, their distinctive approach extended to outerwear, featuring weathered-hued feather jackets that added a unique touch to the collection.
In essence, Han Kjøbenhavn embodied what felt to us a heartfelt homage to city life (Berlin being our primary POV). From the towering concrete edifices to the bustling population in the skies, the narrative woven into their collection resonated strongly, solidifying the brand’s presence within the fashion-week landscape.
We are all our own main characters, and designers Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee know it. Living the Paris Hilton fantasy, this season Vaquera found inspiration in the bug-eyed A-listers of Hollywood and the world’s biggest paparazzi pleasers.
The show kicked off with a bold statement—an eye-catching chrome fishnet catsuit channelling a wonderfully warped interpretation of the Barbie doll aesthetic ruling 2023, however, the look existed without the facade of plasticized perfection. This outfit prominently featured outlined breasts and a distinctive crotch detail which was cheered on by the free-standing crowd positioned much like a Ballroom set-up.
As the show unfolded, sage green trench coats (but far from conventional), avant-garde oversized shirt dresses, provocative bondage-style catsuits, and denim two-pieces graced the collection. However, they seamlessly melded into the broader narrative, culminating in Vaquera’s Look 32: a remarkable bulbous faux-fur coat dress and matching hat adorned with an oversized flower detail at the neckline, stealing the spotlight.