It’s fresh, it’s in, and yet it’s still totally British
In the ever-evolving landscape of fashion, S.S. Daley’s A/W 24 collection stands out as THE moment. It’s fresh, it’s in, and yet it’s still totally British. Rooted in the designer’s unique perspective as a working-class boy from Liverpool, the collection navigates the hallowed halls of British schools, challenging established norms and unravelling the layers of institutionalised formality. Daley’s designs breathe new life into the rigid codes of academia, infusing them with a touch of rebellion and intimacy. To accomplish this, Daley brings us on a journey, where the looks transport us into spaces of freedom. So buckle up, because we’re bringing you on the Daley ride.
There are two crucial spaces Daley investigates in this collection. Namely, the dormitory and Italian holiday. These two spaces enter into a conversation, one an intimate place within the institutions, and one a moment of independence from them. As we descend into school dorms, the formality that once defined these spaces gives way to private moments. Oxford tails are styled without trousers, ties are discarded, and buttons are left undone. This departure from tradition creates a visual narrative of liberation. Similarly, the collection pays homage to E.M. Forster’s ‘A Story of A Panic’, a tale of an Englishman on an Italian holiday. Here, the tourist sheds the weight of regulations Clothing becomes lighter, breezier, and infused with a sense of escapism, symbolising a break from the constraints. While both moments visually give way to moments of freedom, they maintain classic British sartorial codes that we all recognize – making it almost cosy and familiar.
Now, we gotta talk about the knitwear – TBH it takes centre stage. Daley played with proportion, reinterpreting the rugby shirt into a floor length collared knit featuring English motifs. While playful, there remains a sense of modesty in the shirts. Another fav is the fish blouse. Need we say more? A special mention goes out to all the military-coded references, adding the layer of inheritance to notions of obligation but in the Daley way.
Essentially, S.S. Daley has done it again, masterfully navigating the intricate dance between tradition and rebellion