The city that never fails to blow our minds
Continuing its 40th anniversary celebrations, London Fashion Week returns reeling off presentations showcasing the capital’s most ingenious fashion minds. From Di Petsa’s labyrinth, HARRI’s sci-fi dreamscape to Simone Rocha’s courtroom performance, the week set forth a showcase of bold visions and diverse aesthetics. This recap delves into the standout moments of a season where innovation and artistry collide.
Di Petsa
Di Petsa’s My Body is a Labyrinth had audiences spellbound with Petsa’s telling of the Greek myth of Theseus and the Minotaur. The collection navigates the darker, raw side of human nature and advocates for us to confront our shadow selves. The collection fearlessly explored natural elements interwoven with high fashion. Wet-look draping, period blood-stained briefs, and nipple sweat-printed bodycon dress… Each look accompanied glowing skin, sand-encrusted hair, and red hot tan lines, branding each model part of the retelling.
Chopova Lowena
In the decrepit basement of Shoreditch Town Hall, Chopova Lowena’s SS25 collection transported us to a wild mash-up of the Wild West and rhythmic gymnastics. The show was a celebration of eclecticism, featuring tiered, smock-y blouses over petticoat skirts and playful elements like surreal Asics trainers adorned with garden-centre metal butterflies. Jewellery was a standout, with cutlery and toy horses elevating the whimsical feel. Chopova Lowena’s SS25 collection is a vibrant testament to their innovative spirit and fun approach to fashion.
Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha’s SS25 show at The Old Bailey, London’s historic criminal court, put its collection up for trial. Doused in nuance, the collection showcased the dramatic essence of theatre, referencing dancers Michael Clark and Pina Bausch’s works. Namely Bausch’s work Nelken, through its carnation motifs taken straight from the stage and appliquéd across tulle handbags to tailored dresses. Rochas’s vision of dance and performance pairs ballet wrap cardigans with woollen overcoats, and negligées with tutus – fusing the private with the public.
Masha Popova
Masha Popova continues to embrace a sophisticated yet playful aesthetic. Inspired by everyday wardrobe mishaps and existential reflection, Popova’s designs featured tweed jackets, pussy-bow blouses, and jersey dresses with intentionally misaligned details. The collection explored the nuances of “impulsive dressing” through half-zipped skirts and jackets with integrated capes, capturing the essence of fashion’s imperfections. Denim played a central role, with waterproof trench coats and tailored trousers showcasing a worn, aged look. Popova’s show masterfully blended practical elegance with a touch of whimsy, offering a refreshing take on grown-up fashion.
Harri
Harri’s SS25 collection unfolded in a venue that felt like stepping into a futuristic reverie. The show merged traditional artistry with a cutting-edge digital aesthetic, creating a narrative that was both regal and avant-garde. Inspired by Wolfe Von Lenkiewicz’s fusion of Renaissance painting with modern technology, Harri’s designs were a masterclass in exaggerated proportions and intricate handcrafting. Models transformed into powerful, grand figures, as Harri showcased a seamless blend of tradition and innovation, pushing the boundaries of artisanal detail with a bold, future-forward edge.
Images courtesy of the brand
Words by Lily Pattison