Knee-deep in historical references and tartan socks
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy just made an entrance at Milan Fashion week, and it’s time to talk about it! The collection, dedicated to workers, posers and snakes (interpret that as you may), is a look down the culture-driven industrial chain. Though, in many ways dedicated to its debut in Milan — this collection has the UK written all over it — especially, given the brazen influences of the designer’s Scottish heritage. Split into three dedicated categories, each holds its own narrative; from the hard-grafting workers to the tailored exaggeration of the posers, to the extravagant metallics of the hierarchal ‘snakes’.
Championing, in true Loverboy style, a 50’s esque teddy-boy-feel alongside a fresh take on tartan and colours galore, the collection is an ode to maximalism, slogans, his Scottish heritage, elevated workwear and the illustrious art-fashion intersection. All in all, these motifs hail identity, and narrative, screaming subversion regarding the relationship between politics, fashion and the ‘real-world’, from yesteryear to today.
There are almost too many looks within this collection to be realised, so let’s start with our favourites. Opening the show with an oversized grey pinstripe blazer, reading “The Scottish Basic” in bold white embroidery, we knew we were in for a treat. The model — carrying what appears to be a yassified toolbox — is sporting calf-high socks held up by garters. Wearing a beret with goggles, reminiscent of the “worker”, ‘off to the mines’ narrative, Lovestory immediately puts his best foot forward and notifies the audience they are in for a bit of history through his undeniably contemporary lens. Another key moment is the launch of the boxy red and purple duffle coat. Evoking the original duffle style (first made by John Partridge in the 1850′ and later worn by the Navy), this oversized piece features a deep collar and overexaggerated seems in an electric violet. Paired on the runway with a large wool-printed scarf, and matching print tights — the vision is lux paramount, and we can already see it walking down the streets of every major city. We also have to mention the silk, newspaper-printed motifs running throughout the collection. From assymetric midi-skirs to shirts and trouser co-ords, this is an Elsa Schiaparelli reboot, and although the vision was first created in the early ’30s, almost 100 years later it relives as an instant staple within Lovestory’s A/W ’23 vision.
Overall, the collection is knee-deep in historical references and tartan socks and proves to be a defining moment for the designer whose sublime vision could become the blueprint for 2023’s hottest fashion moments.