We reflect on a fashion season that blended contradictions seamlessly
This AW2025 menswear season in Paris explored the dichotomies of the old and the new, blending familiar aesthetics with futuristic twists. Westernwear and Americana were given a contemporary update with brands such as Ouest and LIBERE pulling inspirations from rugged pasts while looking towards the future — at the same time, Sci-fi and otherworldly influences offered fresh silhouettes and innovative creations (including 3D printed pieces), as were seen in the collections of Walter Van Beirendonck and YENESAI. Other niche cultural references emerged, like in Prototypes’ upcycled streetwear collaboration with Alpha Industries, whose nods to 90’s rave culture offered a contemporary take on the subcultures of the past. Ziggy Chen and Sean Suen also delved into their cultural heritage, fusing together Eastern and Western silhouettes. Whether through nostalgic Americana or forward-facing vision, the collections made one thing clear: the future of menswear is about embracing contrasts, exploring the tension between tradition and innovation, and pushing the boundaries of what we consider timeless.
Prototypes, the Swiss brand known for its upcycled clothing, presented its Series 08 collection in collaboration with the military and outerwear brand, Alpha Industries. Amongst a carpet of leaf litter, twigs, and branches, models sauntered about in jersey hoodies, joggers, and zip-ups adorned with the Alpha Industries logo as electronic music pulsated in the background. The music, played by a live DJ positioned on the upstairs mezzanine, not only contributed to the indoor-outdoor rave vibes, but also nodded to the English electronic group, The Prodigy’s 1997 electronic album, The Fat of the Land, which Prototype’s accompanying short film was also titled. Presented alongside a series of signature Alpha Industries designs — the MA-1 bomber jacket, M-65 field jacket, and past collaborations with the likes of Patta and Stussy — Series 08 is a continuation of Prototypes’ exploration of subculture and old-becomes-new-again garments.
Last season, Walter Van Beirendonck saw the future, this season he designed it. “This time I took a much more contemplative approach to form a new collection,” said the Belgian designer in the show notes, “Emphasis on NEW.”In response to the industry’s current obsession with nostalgia à la “vintage or archival clothing”, Van Beirendonck proposed otherworldly cut-outs, sinewy silhouettes, and extraterrestrial-inspired motifs — suggesting to today’s generation that it’s the act of looking forward, and not back, that inspires innovation.
To Chinese designer Sean Suen, clothing is a medium for cultural exchange and fusion. For his AW2025 collection The Ancient Tea Horse Road, the designer drew inspiration from the eponymous trade network that connected southwestern China to regions in Tibet and other neighbouring countries. Combining modern, Western-wear silhouettes with colours inspired by the landscapes of the region and natural materials such as wool and leather, Suen’s collection honours the spirit of connectivity in a world that increasingly feels isolationist.
Behind draped, red velvet curtains, models perched atop pedestals, standing in contrapposto and quick-draw stances lined the perimeter. Donned in cowboy hats, denim, and leather jackets, the references to Americana were clear. Presented in the wake of renowned filmmaker David Lynch’s passing, Ouest’s AW2025 collection aimed to answer the “increasingly pressing question: what do you do when the American Dream disappears?” as the brand’s founder and creative director, Arthur Robert explained in the presentation notes. Tom Finland-esque details such as form-fitting silhouettes, deep-plunging necklines, and leather accents furthered the brand’s exploration of masculinity and sensuality, while also referencing the works of Karlheinz Weinberger, Stanley Stellar, and the German filmmaker Rainer Fassbinder’s personal style.
In Ziggy Chen’s usual convention of using portmanteaus as collection names, AW2025’s was aptly entitled: VOLEISURE. The term, as described in the show notes, “summarizes ‘volition’ and ‘leisure’, a relaxed and elegant attitude to everyday gestures.” Such an attitude was distilled into a thirty-four-look collection characterized by easygoing tailored silhouettes, bespoke watercolor prints, knit headpieces, and oversized mittens. The looks, which can be worn in both urban and rural environments, prompt us to escape our rigid routines and embark on a “whispered, timeless, and refined way of life.” In a world that champions over-productivity and the ruthless pace of modern life, VOLESURE honors a sense of balance, embracing the delicate interplay between work and leisure, nature and the built environment, and the quiet confidence found in thoughtful simplicity.
Under a series of atmospheric lights in a building in Paris’ ninth arrondissement, the London-based brand, YENESAI presented Alignment— A Celestial Odyssey into the Unknown for its AW2025 collection. In lieu of a traditional runway show, a series of thirteen looks were presented in an enchanting performance choreographed by Georges Labbat. Moving to the beat of rhythmic and intense drums, Alignment transported the audience to an otherworldly landscape—a space between survival and transcendence. Inspired by science fiction’s meditations on adaptation, the collection featured garments that fused intricate craftsmanship with futuristic innovation, including sculptural 3D-printed accents, fluid body-mapped fabrics, and stretch-paneled leathers created pieces that felt both protective and poetic. The collection as a whole reminds us that even in extremes, creativity and movement pave the way for extraordinary possibilities.
Tokyo-based brand LIBERE presented its AW2025 collection WILD WEST MIDNIGHT, combining the rugged freedom of the American West with the enigmatic allure of the urban night. The collection captures the fleeting magic of twilight, where day transitions into night, through oversized, vintage-styled streetwear reimagined with a twist. Cropped, wide silhouettes are elevated with intricate patterns and striking details, merging Western toughness with the delicate mystique of midnight. Embellishments like bijoux and studs punctuate the designs, adding depth to each piece. The collection speaks to LIBERE’s desire to “inspire new styles and hope” while reimagining the Americana aesthetic for a more contemporary audience.
Images courtesy of the brands
Words by Nabi Williams