In conversation with Ziggy Chen

We should all be practising Voleisure

Ziggy Chen, the Shanghai-based designer known for his introspective approach to fashion, has long stood apart in an industry often driven by hype and logo mania. The brand’s collections eschew fleeting trends in favor of thoughtful craftsmanship and signature prints, combining traditional Chinese aesthetics with Western silhouettes.

This season, Chen and his team debuted VOLEISURE, a collection that combines the ideas of volition and leisure into a quiet rebellion against the relentless pace of modern life. Its thirty-four looks feature relaxed silhouettes, watercolor prints, textures inspired by Chinese architecture, and a series of jacquard pieces — a first for the brand —  all brought to life in a palette of khaki greens, brown-reds, and grey-blues. Designed for both urban and rural settings, the collection encourages us to break free from rigid routines and embrace a timeless, refined way of life. Backstage after the debut of his AW2025 show, we spoke to Chen about how his upbringing in China informs his work, the interplay of work and relaxation in his creative practice, and why fashion is ultimately about the relationship one has with oneself. 

Hello, Ziggy. Congratulations on your show. How are you feeling?

Good. I’m feeling good.

You named your collection ‘VOLEISURE’. It’s a combination of the words ‘volition’ and ‘leisure’. The first word, ‘volition’,  implies agency and an individual’s willingness to take control of one’s own time. How do you, as a designer, who works in a very fast-paced industry, practice this concept of ‘VOLEISURE’?

The concept of ‘VOLEISURE’ is really connected to my own lifestyle, and also that of my teammates and colleagues. We’re of course busy every day but we still try to have fun with our lives. We work hard but still take the time to relax.For myself, my life is not isolated per se, but I’m usually in my own world.  So, I try not to follow a fast-paced life like the world around me.

How do you and your team relax?

We work hard, go home, and really just take the time to be quiet.

What stands out about your work, not just this collection, but in general, is the focus and exploration of memory — both personal memory and shared, cultural memories through references to Chinese history and such. Could you expand on how Chinese architecture and history influenced this collection in particular?

It has a big impact on my personal taste because I grew up with all these surroundings: the Chinese architecture, the colors, the textures. I of course love traveling and seeing things in Europe or Japan, for example, but it always comes back to the original memories I have of the architecture and landscapes of China. It’s in my bones. So it’s not something that goes away. The memories are a part of me.

You introduced jacquard pieces in this collection. Could you explain the process behind introducing these pieces? 

Jacquard is something that we haven’t worked so much with. I’ve been curious about the technique behind it for some time, and there were a lot of ideas that my team and I wanted to try. For this season in particular, we did a lot of research and experimentation around the textiles and the weaving process and it eventually became a big part of the collection.

Balance is a key theme in the collection — from balancing work and leisure, or balancing nature and the human-built environment, for example. What role do you think fashion plays in living a more balanced and intentional life?

Fashion is so much more about the relationship one has with oneself, rather than being strictly about just garments. I’m not as concerned about what’s on the surface, but more about what lies underneath — the inner relationship one has, it’s something that’s invisible. Fashion can act as a tool for self-exploration.


This interview was conducted with the assistance of an interpreter.

Images courtesy of the brand

Words by Nabi Williams